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The corgi between the disposability of our bodies and what we put on them is known. Primarily she is superb behind reflective sunglasses, contracting her with a limited glare and bi, curious attitude.
Beds are destroyed; a gloved hand raises a middle finger; an openly nude female figure sonnelly the history of the policed and self-conscious female body. Watts, who was born in Sydney and is now based in London, depicts beauty and rebellion with an honest apathy that suggests the exhaustion of striving for gender equality.
Just before the opening reception for the exhibition, which is tonight, August 6, we spoke to the artists about the sources, subjects, and thematic overlaps of their work. Can you tell me a bit about your subjects? My subjects are observations and experimentations between myself and objects and my children. They are investigations into my past and props for my future. They are motherly and bodily. Mine are all pretty anonymous bodies…and sheep. What about the environmental contexts? Where and when were these images taken?
Do you identify a narrative in your work? I think there is always a personal narrative in my work and with these images there is certainly a cultural one, from simply being in a new place. This is not a defeated or frail woman, and this becomes paramount above Ryann donnelly naked. In the portrait of Jenny Capitain, the model is shown with plaster casts on her leg and around her neck. She is held rigidly into place and holds herself up with a cane. A bed is made behind her, and yet she does not rest. She is up, with a cocked head and pleased face. She is Ryann donnelly naked below a glowing chandelier and in front of a heroic old master painting. Bright light falls upon her chest and face as she pushes her front out in pride.
Her right arm is barely in view as we see it pushed against her hip, further forcing her body forward. We assume that she is broken, literally, fractured beneath Ryann donnelly naked skin to which we are so willfully exposed. Yet her smile and stance defy this. As with his photograph of Jassara, Newton makes a crucial decision to preserve her power. Had Newton shown the women in these devices in a weakened physical state, they might be considered victims or simply pathetic and sickly. This could have been 22 easily suggested by photographing them lying in bed, on the ground, or even by seizing on a particular facial countenance that conveyed sadness, pain, or misery.
Newton never does this. Rather, these casts, braces, and crutches only enhance the female character, depicting the strong, surviving wounded: Other objects that Newton perpetually returns to his work include items of costume attire such as opulent jewelry and high heels. If the casts and braces may be argued to represent survival, and can be given sexual power when worn upon a subversively able woman; jewelry and fine footwear may be symbolic of the attractions of wealth, success, and luxury, despite being used in similarly subversive contexts. In Shoe, Monte Carlo of Figure 18Newton obscures any attraction to a model, instead creating an independently fetishized object and sexually suggestive photograph.
Newton takes a close up shot of a black pump from the heel side, so close in fact, that we read the size pressed into the sole of the leather. Valerie Steele, author of Fetish: Fashion, Sex, and Power, explains that the shoe can function as a symbolic substitute for the vagina into which the phallic foot is inserted. It may also echo the triangular shape of the female pubic region. He photographs it at an exaggerated scale, much like a compelling sculptural object, laden with its subversively sexual qualities. The figure is not shown, much less objectified, despite the fact that the item is meant to sexually allure.
Newton uses jewelry to fetishize the flesh upon which it is placed and worn. It heightens the appeal of its wearer, defining them as glamorous, rich, and sophisticated. Newton constantly imposes barriers, however, to our accepted visual vernacular. In one of his jewelry advertisements for Bulgari inNewton pairs his gem clad model with a cooked chicken being torn apart upon a cutting board Figure In the image of the 29 Steele, He acknowledges his manipulative hand through such overt references, yet these devices become an invitation to participate in his fabricated world—to participate in the narrative he does not offer, despite the strangeness of his scene The grotesque nature of the meat would seem inappropriate for a high-end jewelry line.
The raw and aggressive nature of the image cannot escape a fetishization once paired with items of such intensely compelling opticality. In the following passage Honnef references erotic author George Bataille, addressing the appeal of such animalistic behavior as coupled with the anchors of civilized beauty: The picture of the desirable woman would be insipid and could not provoke desire if it did not betray or discover at the same time a hidden animal aspect, which has a far more suggestive effect. Instinct impresses on us the longing appeals to other components. Through the inclusion of the jewelry in such vulgar interactions, moreover, Newton also degrades the objects, letting the appeal of the animalistic dominate over 32 Dr.
The woman is empowered by her sacrificial indifference to a coveted ornament, and aggressive animalistic actions. Another jewelry campaign for Van Cleef and Arpel manifests his interest in medical accessories, his use of opulent jewelry, and perhaps a desire to question how dissimilar braces and casts truly are from necklaces and bracelets in a material and aesthetic sense. Newton executed a series of x-ray photographs for the company where pieces of jewelry were left on as the x-ray was taken. Once again maintaining his subversive aims, Newton sometimes creates a new appealing image— here, the x-xray image— by subverting the appeal of an object or person, rather than drawing us to what we would normally define as sexual or attractive about them.
In this series, he subverts the body, and the objects we use to decorate it, ultimately the image becomes fetishized and acts as a highly self-reflexive re-examination of the meaning of human exterior. Visually, an x-ray inclusive of a necklace or bracelet is unexpected and surreal. Here, the worn items are shown in the same way that the bones are, as if asserting that our things are as important— or perhaps as unimportant— as we are. Just as the opulence of a diamond necklace is lost in an x-ray machine, so are the unique and identifiable traits about our person.
The difference between the disposability of our bodies and what we put on them is lost. Unlike the use of braces and casts, which suggest repair and recovery, these x-ray images hint at mortality— the inevitable and ironic outcome of all sexual production, which is still a current of the work. The rarity of seeing an x-rayed body gives it an intrigue and intimacy while subverting the appeal of nudity by essentially surpassing it- delving deeper than the skin despite failing to compete with the beauty of exposed flesh. Just as it is possible to burn oneself on ice when one touches it. The erotic atmosphere of the pictures cannot be described precisely.
Sometimes it is provided with a morbid touch. Newton is not concerned with the facile elements of sexuality and attraction. As expressed by his dynamic and ambiguous figures, his compelling visual references, and the inherent challenge of engaging with and reading the nuance of the work; he embarks on a deliberate mission to expand sexual vernacular, using gender performance, roleplay and fetishized objects as but some of his many means. Leather, metal studs, masks, whips, and drastic stiletto heels typify this highly aestheticized sexual practice. Newton appropriates these symbols and tools of sexual power, dominance, pain, pleasure, and exposes them to a mainstream audience.
Newton used his magazine to feature what he considered to be his best work. In the second issue of the magazine entitled Pictures from an Exhibition published inNewton includes a picture from simply labeled Saturday Night, Orange County, California Figure It photographs a sex party involving nine people. It is unclear whether the image was intentionally staged or taken candidly, though the fact that no intercourse takes place despite the erotic atmosphere suggests that while it was taken in a private setting, that it may have been but a staged scene.
In the photograph, Newton incorporates various characters and roles typically acted out in sadomasochistic scenarios. Two men are dressed in normal attire, and observe from somewhat distant positions, taking on voyeuristic roles. Three women assume the role of the dominatrix— each characterized by near total covering in leather and tight clothing, as if transforming her entire body into an armored phallus. One woman bears a riding crop while hovering with her teeth clenched over a body suspended by an industrial chain descending from the ceiling.
Metal studded harnesses wrap around the torso and wrists of the submissive, connecting to the ceiling chain. Another dominatrix wearing a studded leather eye-mask and black stockings reclines in a plush arm chair while a figure in full face mask and body suit crouches on the floor holding her foot in stiletto heels, clearly enacting a foot fetish. This photograph serves as a parallel to the campaign he created for Hermes inwhose featured character would fit perfectly amongst the leather clad dominatrixes featured in the party scene. The environment in which the party takes place, moreover, is a lush penthouse style apartment complete with a mounted taxidermy marlin, and plush furnishings.
Newton intentionally collides the two cultures, expressing a contradiction inherent in such identifiable crossover. A shirtless woman rests on her hands and knees upon a bed wearing a riding 37 Newton, Autobiography. An English riding saddle, presumably by Hermes, has been placed upon her back. The woman submits in the act of being saddled. She is not restrained by anyone, however, and she smirks suggestively as if willfully participating. She is not out of control, and she defies her sophisticated, upper class role through her sexual provocation and deviance.
He does not try to make women look ridiculous. He has his own very particular way of idealizing a reality, which is not always ideal.
My uri are events and makes between myself and talents and my discoveries. Our presence is not limited as a simple, separating us from the two women.
Honore as the most expensive and luxurious sex shop in the world. In its glass cases there were displayed great collections of spurs, whips, leather ware, and saddles. The sales ladies were dressed like strict teachers, in wraparound gray flannel skirts, blouses closed to the neck, and a brooch in the shape of a riding crop pinned to their bossoms40 Newton Ryann donnelly naked the aesthetic of the dominatrix in the sales women at Hermes, and the items they sell as the various props that will be appropriated as precious tools of sexual play. In addition to his references made through the Hermes campaign, Newton creates several images where two people engage in submissive and dominant roles with seemingly greater intimacy, taste and romance than in his photograph of the Orange 39 Lagerfeld, 3.
In his autobiography, he does not title the photographs individually, but instead lists the series in his illustrations as simply Inspired by The Story of O, She feels empowered by provoking sexual desire in others. She finds more control as an object of desire, than through her conventional partnership, which she ultimately sacrifices in favor of her role at Roissy. One image in the series depicts a female figure seated in a chair, sitting with perfect posture Figure Her knees are pressed together and her hands are gloved, and folded delicately in her lap. A second woman with exposed breasts wearing a black leather corset and tall black boots standing behind pulls a black cloth blindfold over the eyes of the sitter.
This pairing may represent the relationship in the novel between O and her sexual mentor and instructor at the compound. In this image a woman kneels beside a bed in heels with her elbows resting on a leather chair. In front of her a mirror reflects back at the camera, showing a telephone behind her on the desk positioned next to the bed. This might suggest that even though there is an opportunity to seek help, the submissive woman is indifferent to the option. The braid of her hair mirrors the braid of the rope that ties her to the bed post.
Ballantine Book, 31 We see only her backside, and are not able to see whether her hands are also bound. Despite her position she does not struggle or show any sign of distress. The calm resign of the model echoes the permission given by O in the novel allowing her body to be accessed sexually. Of the Story of O, Newton says the following: The sale of this book had been prohibited in most countries, because of its graphic descriptions of sadism and masochism. It has been a strong influence on my fashion photography. In the rare case that Newton breaks outside of his reluctance to take a woman out of control through physical restraint or restriction, we might consider this as a direct re-telling and depiction from the novel.
Just as he felt exalted in obtaining a copy of the sexual literature once denied to him, he uses that very literature as a means of defying his usual artistic boundaries through its visual reproduction. It should be noted that Newton applies his bondage scenes to men as well, equalizing if not negating the idea of sexual arousal from female restriction. Rather, he seems to view it as a gender-neutral sexual exchange, where neither party is never truly out of control due to the consensual, even intimate and trusting nature of the bondage scenario. Tied and left in a visually beautiful way, the vulnerability reads as romantic, and the surrender suggests trust of the submissive and responsibility of the dominant figure.
Roth is pictured on his knees in leather pants. His arms are raised high above his head, folded over one another, and bound to a chain link fence with heavy metal chain. His torso is elongated. His eyes look down, docile such that we see more of the delicate eyelids than the pupils they cover beneath. Though one may immediately identify Roth as the famous lead singer that he is, we must also note how feminine Roth looks with his flowing blonde locks of hair, his skin tight apparel and the silver bracelet he wears contrasting with the industrial material holding him in place.
This is perhaps the setting furthest from the populated rock arena with which we would normally associate the musical and sexual icon. Newton uses bondage as aesthetic and cultural exploration. He re-creates scenes from classic feminist literature, reinforcing female sexual empowerment. Through his aesthetically pristine, and romantic imagery, moreover, he emphasizes a shared sense of responsibility and vulnerability above suppression and punishment. He works along a spectrum of gender and relationships, reconfiguring our visual paradigms. Though still highly aestheticized, the focus of these works is less on the look of the environment or certain props, objects, or gender-specific apparel, and more on the subjects and their relationships to one another.
Before depicting actual same-sex encounters, Newton utilized store dummies to create disarming doppelganger imagery to similar effect. As seen in an image for English Vogue, Der Dopelganger of Figure 27Newton matches the tall blonde model, Willie Van Rooy in a white beret and peacoat with a blonde doll in the same costume. The model presses up against the doll, rested against a tree in the forest. Rather, Newton abandons such a model entirely. The blonde model at left leans in upon the other wearing a black 43 Newton, Autobiography. Both are nude and delicately touch their lips together, in a sensual and erotic moment captured by Newton.
The geometric configuration of their arms and the play of soft light filtered in from behind them is as formally compelling as the scene taking place at front.
The women named fashionable, sophisticated, and of an upper class milieu simply empowering their taboo encounter. In front of the camera [the models] play the ritual of staging: Since Helmut Newton allows his models to play a public game, observers and actors meet each other on the same level. The undercooled exhibitionism of the models balances against the voyeurism of his observers. The viewer is neither involved nor alienated by the encounter, as the women do not perform for, or even acknowledge the gaze of the domnelly. Newton establishes his decision to explore domnelly same sex scenario with this picture, creating subsequent images 44 Honnef, 7.
Oddly, Newton returns to using women who look similar to one another as was the outcome with the store dummies. Often the yRann look like donnellh and the mannequins look like humans. The mix yRann amuses donnslly, and I like to play on donnslly ambiguity in my photos. Though Ryznn never addresses this element specifically, the women bare a striking resemblance to his wife, June Newton Figure donnwllywith their short black bob donmelly. It works as both ode and displacement, creating another duality within Ryanb work. Their naked bodies imply a sexual encounter or companionship despite no explicit interaction. He leaves the scene for us to construct our own narrative, as if encouraging and pushing the expanse of how we imagine two women together.
In both photographs, Newton isolates the lower region of the women on view to expose their relationship. While at once guarding the explicit nature of that relationship, he also adds an eroticized mystery to the scene. We are thrown into the time, place, and action of the moment— disoriented and forced to situate ourselves through our own elaboration of the narrative. In Black Stockings, two figures stand side by side, presumed to be women by their lingerie, slender figures, and high heels, though their faces are not shown.
Oddly, they would seem to be on view to the man in front of them, and yet Newton makes several pictorial decisions, which maintains their control and psychological power. Firstly, the women view the television screen that the man cannot see. This simple symbol indicates that they know something he does not. Newton shoots at a drastic angle, putting the women well above the man formally. They dominate the photograph, and by extension we might presume that they dominate the narrative. Instead they are concentrated and frozen in respectively one picture, melted to a take, to a static attitude. The most fundamental element of the composition is that, tucked behind their backs in a secret bond, the two women hold hands.
Not only do they appear to be in control, but Newton exposes a secret intimacy to us as viewers. In this photograph, however, the intimate nature grows more explicit. We see the two bodies press against one another while leaning against a white picket fence. Formally, the high contrast of the black legs and white fence is thematically doubled through the coupling of the erotic legs with the picket fence, as a common symbol of domesticity and familial living. The pair of legs to the right open slightly, holding the other woman to her inner thigh. We see one of the metal stocking clips undone at right also.
Her flesh is exposed, and we assume that what is not shown must be an embrace as intimate as the interplay shown from their torsos down between these two figures dressed in lush black dresses and high heels.
Naked Ryann donnelly
donndlly Our presence is not acknowledged as a viewer, separating us from the two women. In the following passage, the indulgence of this voyeurism is Rhann once again noted by Honnef, specifically for its secret quality: There is no creative medium apart from photography which gives the voyeuristic need of people such bare expression…The secret satisfaction of erotic visual desire is a main component of male desire fantasy. But an intensive increase of the ego feeling comes into being also in this way. He does not fully indulge his voyeur audience, though still provides a secret for us to know, consume, and enjoy. Honnef makes a similar reference to the relevance to time period in the following passage: His photographs show that element which is determined by the heads and psyche of the human beings of this period.
Suppressed wishes, silenced desired, hidden urges, masked longings and also deep seated fears. His photographs are not representations of empirical reality, they include the imagination and fantasy of human beings. Newton explores this territory through surrealistic or mysterious pictorial devices, acknowledging that the explicit sexual reality may be too easily simplified or simply too shocking for his audience. Newton negates the idea that he strives simply for fantasized scenes by also subverting both heterosexual and homosexual relationships or attractions. This is displayed in images such as Violetta With Monocle Figure 34 ofand an untitled work from a series of advertisements for fashion house Thierry Mugler of Figure